24 Sept. Baugy to Bourges. 21 miles
Bourges gets the prize for the cathedral with the mostest…. and haven’t been inside yet. Staying in a foyer for the homeless (pilgrim annexe) with one other canadian pilgrim.
Time up – using library (sorry, Bourges, Mediatecque) internet access for free. Must go and see if the inside of the cathrdral will win us over. Five naves, five portals, six tympanums and more flying buttresses than any amount of flying butlers could ever want.
Will try to post again soon.
We woke well after 7. B finding it very hard to wake after a 2nd cosy night. Breakfast: porridge cooked in the same large bowl as the couscous/chick peas and the stewed apple last night as it was the only microwaveable container available, and the microwave and the kettle are the only cooking appliances available.
We were off by 9.15 and tried the church again – still locked. As we put the key in the letter box of the Mairie a red faced panting pelerin a pied with two walking poles strode rapidly towards and past us. We tried a brief conversation but he seemed in too much of a hurry to do more than ask us to point the direction! He had a cockle shell hanging off his pack – but then we have one each on our baskets.
Pleasant and easy ride – sunny again (aren’t we lucky!) through Brecy, St Solange ( with a sweet little pilgrim stopping place at the corner of some vines, with a little picnic table sheltered by a walnut tree and a chestnut tree. We gathered a few chestnuts (very prickly) and ate a couple of grapes each. We didn’t need walnuts as we still have some that Alfonso gave us in Varzy.
Shortly after St Solange we took a roughish track that was the route of the old Roman road into Bourges. Basked P if he could hear the echo of the tramping legionnaires and the plodding pilgrims – he said he couldn’t.
We passed pilgrim no 3 resting at the side of the track – we greeted each other with a cheery wave! The Roman road.track gave us glimpses of what we assumed was Bourges Cathedral St Etienne, it was rathy hazy so we saw little more than a bulk. It took us a while to get in to the city – passed schools, colleges, stade, over the railway line, but we eventually found ourselves pushing the bikes along pedestrianized narrow shopping streets. It was somewhere between 1 and 2, so we bought sandwiches (in baguettes of course) and ate one on a seat near the shop, and the second on a seat looking at the cathedral’s 5 portals and typanums. They left us feeling rather cold – or was that the wind.
Tourist office next, where our pilgrim passports were stamped, and options for pilgrim accomodation discussed. Also the whereabouts of internet access and how to buy a phone card. After this we went to explore the Foyer St Francis option
Note the scallop shell sign for pilgrims
- thro a grille in the forbidding facade of a tall building on a rather forbidding street – even tho’ it was called Rue Joyeuse. There were several young men hanging around, but it was difficult to work out where to go to ask about accommodation. While we were floundering we were joined by pilgrim no 3 who turned out to be a French Canadian from Quebec – so pretty fluent in English and absolutely at home in French – very useful. Eventually we were shown in to an office, explained to that this was a place for the homeless, and shown to the “pilgrim suite” – a room with 5 beds, a shower, a sitting room with chairs & TV, and a loo down the stairs. We were told we must sign in with the manager at 4 o’clock, and shown where to put our bikes – in the laundry room.
So we settled in and chose beds. Serge stretched out on his and dozed, and we read until Bruno appeared, chattily, and showed us back up to the office to fill out forms, and pay €44 for the two of us – bed, evening meal and breakfast. There was some confusion over the change, but P & B weren’t following enough to protest – the trouble with having a French speaker in the group was that nobody said anything at a speed that we could understand.
After this we went off to the Mediatecque, which turned out to be a brand new library, where we got free internet access, and posted a brief update of each day on the blog. All seems to be fine at home. Then we made our way to the cathedral, and went inside under the sixth portal and typanum at the south door. Both of us found it difficult to warm to – it’s just so big. B found bits of carving she liked, but not much else to inspire. We did try, and wandered round pensively until it was time to return to the Foyer for supper of terrine, boudis noire and potato puree, and fruit. Simple but pleasant fare. As we were leaving the dining room, and wondering what to do next, we were invited in to the ‘chapel’ for coffee. This was very unchapel-like, more like a youthclub with residents hanging around smoking but nobody stayed very long. The coffee was very strong, in a small cup, and everyone was adding sugar to make it palatable.
After this we went out to find a phone to arrange our accommodation for the next day, having picked one of the ‘welcoming homes’ from the guidebook. The first phone box was not working properly (although it took our credits) – B could hear Mme Gerbier answering, but she could could not hear B. Eventually we found a phone that worked and arranged accommodation in a mobile home on a farm. We were reminded to bring bread! Also tried to ring home but the phone box would not allow us. Back to the Foyer. Had to ask to be let in as it was after 10, and to bed.
25 Sept. Thursday. Bourges to La Tripterie 38 miles
Plain breakfast of rolls and coffee in bowls with the residents – we had a chatty one but it was difficult to follow all his story about a brilliant daughter and a genius surrealist artist wife because he and our canadian fellow pilgrim were talking so fast.
We posted a packet of no longer required maps and some postcards, then set off out of the city and across the rolling plain of Berry to Chavost and Issoudun. At Issoudun we went to a museum in an old hospital (from medieval times to 1800s) with an ‘interesting’ mix of ancient artefacts (including a head of St Jacques), a New Guinea ethnological collection from some local religious missionary community and some modern art – some lovely and some quite disturbing, especially in conjunction with the Papuan masks, spears etc and the rain forest sound effects.
Then on another 10 miles or so to La Tripterie, a beautiful farm with a mobile home tucked under one end of an enormous barn for pilgrims. José from Fountainbleu was already in residence, but there was room for plenty with three little bedrooms. Lots of french conversation, and a non-french cuisine one-pot supper of pasta etc cooked by the english contingent (us). Farmer really nice chap – friendly and delighted with our CSJ pilgrim passports because big enough to use his extra wide stamp.
Breakfast at the Foyer was 6.30 – 7.45. B woke early and P by 6.30. We got dressed as quietly as we could so as not to disturb Serge, but he woke at about 6.50. We went down to breakfast leaving Serge to dress and follow us. Breakfast was rolls and slices of bread with butter and redcurrant jelly and coffee (out of a bowl). We were joined by on of the residents who started talking to us, then we were joined by Serge who made the conversation intelligible. After breakfast we packed and said our goodbyes to Serge and set off towards the Poste to send a colouring book to Emily and some maps to reduce the load. B checked the route on the map, and we set off into the morning traffic. The route was quite easy – undulating but not hilly – and so we didn’t have to walk once, and so made good progress. Stopped by a river in Villeneuve-sur-Cher (there were conkers) to eat a bowl of cereal with the last of the milk and then on, via Charost with a church in redstone
Church door at Charost
with the builders in, to Issoudon for lunch. Had a sandwich and then went to the Musee of St Roche for a change of viewing style. Very interesting (and free!)museum and art gallery on the site of an old pilgrim hospital, containing a few (but beautifully presented) artefacts; bits of Roman capitals, ancient head of St James, beautiful Jesse tree in old chapel, that sort of thing. (Turns out the mayor is keen to build things, and knows where to get the money.) Then, as a kind of surreal bringing back to reality we walked in to the very modern art gallery part of the musee, which contained more beautifully presented pictures, and an exhibition of Papuan masks and weapons collected by a local missionary religious order (because, apparently, the little community couldn’t afford their own museum.)
By now we were going to be later than the 5-6 we had told them we would arrive at the caravan. We managed to work out on the map where we were in the town and which way to set off, which we did as fast as we could, although we stopped at a supermarket to get food for supper (and the bread). Continued as fast as we could to our stopping place for the night. We could see a track on to the farm, but it looked a bit too overgrown for the bikes, so we had to cycle another couple of miles and come up a long track from the far side. The farm buildings were long and old and set around a big courtyard/farmyard. Our hosts were out, but a notice pinned to the door directed us round the back of the barn to the accommodation; a 7-8 berth very static caravan tucked under the edge of a barn.
Pilgrim caravan refuge at La Tripterie
The view from our bedroom window - into a barn full of dusty Stuff
Flowers in the grass at La Tripterie
There was another pilgrim already there, and he told us that we were to have the room at the end – with the double bed! We unloaded the bicycles, made the bed, found which was the shower and loo, made tea and chatted to the other pilgrim , Jose, and later our host who had taken a break from overseeing the harvesting of his potatoes say say hello and stamp our PPs. He advised us to avoid the city of Chateauroux and cut through the forest to the south east instead today, ignoring the route as laid down by M et Mde Chassain in our guide. We suggested to the other pilgrim that we would cook a supper and he could share it with us. Made a huge pasta, tomato sauce, peas and carrots. Ate most of it but not all – it was just too much. B planned tomorrow’s route.
Friday 26 Sept La Tripterie, St.Fauste to Argenton-sur-Creuse 36 miles
Through forest south of Chateauroux (which we skirted) then into more hilly country towards the Creuse. Left a mid afternoon snack too late and both suffering from low sugar got a bit overcome by the Argenton-sur-Creuse rush hour. Put that right with sticky cakes but them found the hotel with the pilgrim rates (nothing else here) closed, and although there was a number to call on Fris and Sats, there was no reply, after I cycled half way round the town looking for a phone box)
So we cycled on a bit and ended up in a hotel a bit above our price range. Peter made the most of the hot water and heated towel rail to do a lot of washing while Bridget had a shower in the long shower tray. Then we had a proper restaurant meal, our first. Yummy. And wine.
Slept long, sat in bed with tea whilst Jose got up, ate his breakfast and made ready for the day. We said goodbye at about 9am with photo taking. Then we had a leisurely breakfast and retrieved our cutlery from the kitchen drawer where Jose had tidied it away! After washing up, tidying, sweeping the caravan and poading the bikes it was 10 as usual before we were ready for the off. Our host broke off from his work to say a warm goodbye to us as we departed across his garden admiring the cyclamen. It was still easy undulating quiet roads. We decided on the longer forest route after crossing l’Indre at Claviere, where we saw a kingfisher!
Bridget by l'Indre
There MAY be a kingfisher here somewhere!
It was wonderfully quiet and easy riding through the forest, so we made good progress. We found the Chapelle Notre Dame de Chênes (Our Lady of the Oaks) in the forest and decided it would be a pleasant place for lunch. There was a picnic table in a clearing with shade from a young oak, the sun shining on our backs from an almost clear sky.Peter spread the tent out in the sun as it had been shut up since the cold damp start in Vezelay, and we had a long lunch break, before completing our traverse of the forest and circling the Carrefour des Pelerins.
Carrefour des Pelerins
After the forest the roads stared to get a bit more hilly, and before long we had to do some walking up hills. Coming into the village of St Marcel, just outside Argenton-sur Creuse we passed a small pilgrim chapel, then looked in the church on the side of the hill in the middle of the village. It had a crypt and ‘treasure’!
Church on the side of a steep hill
Down the stepp hill we were immediately into Argenton. It was about 5 and rush hour. After our days in relative peace we found the noise overwhelming. Low blood sugar and the noise, people, bustle, traffic combined to turn Peter’s head to mush, so we stopped to buy two exotic chocolate cakes at a Patisserie. After eating them sitting in the square ( with extra, addede from boys on scooters with no silencers) we found a town map at the Office de Tourisme. Peter took money out of a hole in the wall, and Bridget bought the next IGN map in a book shop. Then we set out to find somewhere for the night. There was a hotel in our guide with special rates fro pilgrims, but when we found it it was closed, in spite of a sign saying that it remained open all year. Ther was a telephone number, but after a search for a public phone, there was no reply. Other hotels also seems closed, or far too grand, so we cycled out of town in our intended direction, until we came to hotel L’Escapade, where a double room B and B was €60. The very helpful young manager spoke the sort of french we could follow and showed us where to put our bikes for safety, waited patiently while we unloaded the panniers etc and helped us carry them up to our room.
We indulged in the huge shower (big enough for Bb to lay sort of crooked with the water playing on her belly – lovely!) with joint bathing and clothes washing, using the towels to wring out the clothes and the towel rail to dry them on. (And they were dry by morning). We treated ourselves to the ‘weekend ‘ set menu – plate of several varieties of smoked fish,salad, pork, cheese, and finished with a rich chocolate mousse, washed down with 1/2 litre of house red wine. Rather different from our usual one-pot creation, cooked and eaten in under half an hour – we sat for a good two hours over this meal, then crawled upstairs and ZONKED!
Saturday 27 September La Vivier (Argenton) – Bénévent L’Abbaye 49 miles
Bridget’s possible hangover disappeared with the first cup of tea at breakfast – no cuppa since yesterday morning!
Long day with lots of hills, going up to 500 feet, and into Limousin where the cows are brown. We are at the above place, in the pilgrim refuge which is so characterful it will need longer than I have to describe it. Also, it has Dr Conquet who has the keys and is the expert on the church, the connection with the Celts, druids, Creuse masons and the golden mean. All in french. I have the leaflets to inform all. Also in French. We are staying here another night to do the place justice and chill out. But the shop shuts soon so not too much internet activity.
The plan is to reach Perigeux by Thursday so that we can get to Paris for the eurostar on Friday evening. So three more ‘etapes’ before there.
After a delightfully cosy but heavy slumber (the red wine) B woke feeling pretty grim – headache, nauseous – could it be a hangover from the wine – not that she drank that much – or a reaction to the rich food? Horrified thoughts of having to pay for a second night while she slept it off went through our heads.
But thankfully no, having dragged herself down to breakfast and downed the furst cuppa, the instant recovery proved that it had been tea withdrawal symptoms. It had been nearly 24 hours since the last of three cups at La Tripterie, and not even a can of Coke to supply any caffeine. A sobering thought!
So a very good breakfast of good croissants, bread, butter, jam, yoghurt, fresh fruit, tea, coffee, fruit juice and hot chocolate set us up nicely for the day, which we planned was to be a long one, all the way to Bénévent L’Abbaye.
Peter packed efficiently as usual, while B decided on a route, deciding to miss out Crozant in order to avoid one set of steep down and ups and to speed up what was obviously going to be a hard day. We paid, collected the bikes and were off just before 10. Another clear blue skyed day promised warmth. To begin withthe road stayed beside the Creuse,
The Creuse
soon climbing away on the wrong side, as we’d have to cross to the west bank. On one slow walking and pushing stretch B’s eyes fell on the map and noted a bridge which crossed the river and lead to a minor road which went aslant across the contours rather that hairpinning straight up as the planned road did. That decided it, Gargilesse would be ruthlessly cut from our path, as well!
Crossing the Creuse
View of the Creuse from on high
Our climb up the minor road was a easy as the map suggested (although we still walked most of it) and was followed by a nice ride to Eguzon, a small town that just felt nice, with a tourist office lady with an interesting stamp, another example of the ‘Hairdresser’s apostrophe’ (Caract’hair)
Eguzon - note the Hairdresser's apostrophe
and a friendly little shop where we bought a slice of pâté de pommes de terre for lunch. There was a nice village square with a church covered in red Virginia creeper.
Eguzon - village square and church
Outside Eguzon we found a pleasant leafy and sunny ditch to sit in to eat our lunch.
It was a pretty ride through woods with the sun on the leaves.
On south to near Crozant, then we turned South west through La Chapelle Baloue where we looked in the church and enjoyed the romantic paintings of saints Camilla, Maximillianus and someone else.
St Camilla
St Maximillianus
St Another
The church also had other points of interest so we spent a while exploring, and sitting outside having a drink and a biscuit and enjoying a little green plant!
Peter wondering about the low arches
You find all sorts of interesting details if you look!
although they are not always easy to photograph!
It had a lovely door
with pretty toad flax growing in the stone work
Our way took us close to St Germain Beaupré (both familiar names from west Norfolk where I work!) and then through St Agnant de Versillat where we tried to use a phone box to ring ahead to Dr Conquet in Bénévent, but couldn’t make it accept our phone card.
Another beautiful doorway at St Agnant
This afternoon I started to notice the variety of crosses beside the road and take pictures of them.
Cross outside a church
This one was supporting a very flimsy string fence
This one suggested we were not the only pilgrims to St Jacques to pass that way.
On into La Souterraine, where we walked up the steep street looking for a phone box. We bought a little veg and fruit and cans of drink, aand at the square at the top of the hill we found the church closed for renovations.
Yet another beautiful west door at La Souterraine
We pushed on to Bénévent, as it was now five o’clock, and there was still approximately 15 miles to go. Although there were plenty of hills they weren’t so steep now, so that it was slow cycling rather than walking and pushing. So a pretty tough slog but not totally draining. We went through St Priest la Feuille and Chambourand and finally arrived in Bénévent L’Abbaye just after 7 pm. It was 540 metres high, approximately.
It was easy to locate the pilgrim refuge at 1, Place de l’Eglise,. but not so easy to find 34, Ave de la Marches where Dr Jean Conquet lives. We had been informed that he is ‘mad in a nice way’ so were looking forward to meeting him. He is an eccentric enthusiast who talks a lot about his great interest – the local abbey church and its enseignment caché (hidden meaning) of cletic influence through then pre-christian celtic traditions in the locality (evidenced by dolmens and menhirs – we saw signs to them) and the ‘knowledge’ of the Creuse workers of granite (the masonic craft).
Dr Conquet was at pains to warn us not to expect too much from the refuge – no heating, for example- and the walls are full of notices telling ‘tourists’ to go elsewhere as this is only for ‘pilgrims’. Madame Conquet too worried about the cold, but we explained that we have sleeping bags and with the blankets provided we will be fine. Permission was granted for us to have two nights, to have Sunday off riding, and a grand total of €24 was handed over. Our pilgrim passports stamped, we were shown the quick way back to the Place de L’Eglise and ushered down the back steps from the retired docteur’s office.
Letting ourselves in carefully, following instructions given so as not to be like the silly Germans who can’t understand how to turn the key anti-clockwise, we were delighted by the spacious two rooms with masses of interesting posters, pictures of the Creuse masons in the 19th century (working in Paris and walking there and back in groups for protection from the bandits after their wages), and notices galore. There are two double beds and one single covered in colourful blankets; eg knitted squares with little crocheted circles at every intersection!
Time was getting on. It was quite cold so we put socks and pyjama trousers on, heated our tin of lentils and sausages, ate it and the two pots of plain yoghurt (bought at least three days agao and carried in B’s front basket in the sun ever since) with cereal and chopped banana. P braved the shower (it has to be held by hand but was nice and warm ).
Then into bed with socks and a clothes layer, sheet sleeping bags, down sleeping-bags and two blankets on top, and our woolly hats. But in the night B at least discarded first hat, then socks, then the sleeping bag. It was plenty warm enough!
