Camino Ingles continued

4th March 2009

We woke to a gale and a downpour which looked like a Hollywood one created by a hose. This was the view from our window in Hotel Alba.

The rain pouring off the half-finished building outside our window,

and gusting across the roof of another house.

But by the time we were ready to leave the rain had stopped, and we set off up the hill southwards. The day continued with brief showers alternating with blue skies and sunshine!

The village plaza in Anceis. Bridget and Peter are both wearing their Altus 'ponchos'.

That's a tin cat with chubby cheeks sitting on the ledge in front of the horreo.

We followed the directions along quiet lanes and tracks. We passed a panaderia in the middle of nowhere – it seemed to be attached to a bigger bakery  – and entered the district of Carral where we remained most of the day. The sign board informed us of their two special rest places for pilgrims and  just as another shower caught up with us, we fortunately arrived at the first one.

Looking to the left from the shelter at the rest area at Lameira...

and looking to the right. We ate chocolate digestives here, until the sun came out.

More pleasant walking along very quiet roads to Sergude. After Sergude we were directed, by a woman driving past who slowed down to make sure we did the right thing,  along a track which had been improved with granite blocks. This took us through woods and it was nice to be off the road briefly, before leading us back to the road shortly before the main road at Canas.  Then down hill into Sarandones.

Dear little chapel in Saradones

Saradones has a house where Philip II stayed on his was to marry Queen Mary in 1554, with convenient benches outside.

Phil woz 'ere

More importantly, further on in the village JW drew our attention to an unmarked bar. If you can’t spot it, it’s painted orange with green woodwork. The rain was about to start again, and it was lunchtime. We entered, ordered drinks and cheekily asked it they minded us eating our picnic inside. Bless them, they didn’t. We bought crisps as a treat, and before we left also bought further supplies for breakfast next day, as this bar seemed to also be the village shop.

The unmarked bar in Saradones

So we were well rested, fed and watered before tackling the 4 km climb up to the highest point on the route, 463 m, at As Travesas. The sun shone for most of this climb up a pretty valley, past spread out houses and farms, through woods and fields and with a changing view as we climbed.

My favourite horreo of the whole journey, I think.

It was a bit gruelling, and separated the young (Kate seems to steam ahead up hill if anything faster than before to get it over with quickly) from the old (I like to select a low gear for hills and take my time, using plenty of photo opportunities as a cover for taking frequent breathers).

The view from half way up. (Note Peter is readjusting his pack, probably the 23rd time so far.)

and from pretty much the top

At the top there were pig sheds, a flock of sheep, one of which had a bell round it’s neck, and the radio mast which we watched getting nearer and nearer.

Kate is waiting for us

And she's waiting again!

Finally we reached the top!

The marked route took us along paths and tracks rather than the road into As Travesas.

Was it raining or wasn't it?

The Ermida San Roque in As Travesas

The second rest area in Carral is at the community centre and recreation ground in Travesas. More chocolate digestives were consumed, before we set off on the last few kms to the alberque in Hospital de Bruma. Most of it was tracks through scrubland and woods. As well as the gorse which had been with us since leaving A Coruna, I could see larger trees with yellow blossom which I could not identify, until we came to one beside the path.

This yellow blossom is mimosa!!!

Yup, it really is mimosa!

The path crossed two streams using the big granite blocks which seem to be used to improve the camino ingles where the track is muddy or otherwise heavy going.

One km to the albergue

Then we were there, at the famous Bruma albergue. Benigno, the hospitalero, was there ready to greet us. Within seconds he handed over a little silver envelope – a greeting from Ian and Rosie who passed through a month ago on their (wet and cold) pilgrimage from Ferrol to Santiago. We were expected – we belonged!

Delighted to find that Kate could speak and understand Spanish, Benigno spent a long time instructing her in the ways of the light switches and the heaters, and showed us round. We declined his offer of a lift to the supermarket as we had equipped ourselves for our evening meal and breakfast.  He then left us with more instructions about the door and the lock, and assured us he would be back again at 8 and 10.30. We took our shoes off our aching feet, and set the saucepan on the ring with water for tea. We’d only just milked the cups when Benigno re-appeared – more pilgrims were on their way!!

We were excited to be sharing the albergue with others – our firstfellow pilgrims of the Camino Ingles – but when they arrived Owen and Lorelei,  Irish and Australian radiographers from Cork, were bushed by their long stagefrom Betanzos and niot equipped with sheet sleeping bags nor any food. They took up Benigno’s offer of a lift into Meson de Vento to get them to the hostal for the night. While they caught their breath and we shared cups of tea, nuts and Oreos, we heard how out footprints for the last kms, from where the Ferrol and A Coruna routes join, had given them fresh impetus!

We felt a bit sad when they had gone, but ate our spicy couscous and sardines (Peter and Bridget) or chorizo (Kate), grapes and the last Oreos left for us by Lorelei, and settled down in most of our clothes for a chilly night. We had one thick blanket each, over our cotton sleeping bag liners, we slept upstairs where the heaters should have been most effective, but it’s sadly true – the albergue in Bruma is cold in winter. Still, we didn’t freeze, just woke from time to time feeling cold!